A hidden Jewel in Rajesthan - the Oasis of Keetchen

Phalodi, the Oasis town in Thar

Ninad D Sheth

Phalodi isn't quite on the map. At the edge of the Thar Desert this oasis town is a wonder that's worth a visit.
It has in its havelis some of the best Rajasthan architecture, in its 8th century temples some of the oldest places of worship to survive the Islamic conquest of India, in its vegetarian food a tour de force of culinary excellence.

And since we are in Rajasthan there are plenty of legends as well.
The town, 160 km from Jaisalmer is on the long-standing Arab - Marwar -Sindh trading route.
In the olden times, before the Karachi port opened an alternative quicker route, for over 400 years this was a busy trading outpost. Here tax and trade created wealth that fuelled the Marwari community's fortunes and supplied monies to the house of Jodhpur.
Phalodi is a place of money and mystery. It was here that a massive sand storm is said to have buried the treasures of Humayun who was fleeing from Sher Shah Suri.
Even now coins turn up in the sand stretches near the town that bear the mark of the early Mughal period.
We have taken the long road from Delhi a good ten hour drive. A night halt at the government guest house in Bikaner is important.
The night halt makes the trip less of a rush. The guest house is truly basic - but this being Rajasthan the service is top drawer and the rest - after a 7 hour drive - refreshing.
Reaching Phalodi we choose a remarkable place to stay. A heveli built in 1750 called Lal Niwas. As the name suggests this is in  red sandstone and  that has been painstakingly restored.
The artifacts on the wall, old chandeliers the odd weapon and lather opium boxes all take you well back in time. '
But what is truly extraordinary about the place is that the other half of the haveli is left undecorated with bat droppings, cobwebs and the like. So in one surreal step you go into medieval Rajasthan - an experience which lends a true perspective.

We prepare to tuck in a right royal seven course feast that includes the traditional dal bati choorma and katdhi.

Day two is about getting up fresh and early and a 4X4 ride into the Rajasthan desert. A half hour later we are at the oasis of Khichan. The oasis - like the rest of the topography is a shallow pane with sand dunes of modest height surrounding it.
At first you do not see the birds - only hear them busily feeding. You walk over the curved dune and suddenly over the sand duned horizon rise an estimated 3000 demoiselle cranes. It is a heart stopping sight.
These migratory birds from Europe and Russia are one of the smallest of the crane family.

The birds, with black legs and bills of yellow, green and pink have feathery gray areas on their head that ranges from the crown to the nape. A white kajal-like line from the corner of the eye extends to the back of the head.
This is the magic of the desert - a flock of more then three thousand birds flying in unison is awesome. You forget the long hours that took you to get there.
The next one hour is spend in the company of Japanese and French birdwatchers gazing at the graceful birds they soar over the desert horizon. You reflect that Indian tourists have yet to develop bird watching sensitivities.
We come back strangely overwhelmed at this experience of seeing so much birdlife in so desolate a place.
Though there's much more to do even in that tiny town -- as varied as a great Jain temple and an intriguing antique shop -- Phalodi is the place if bird watching is on your mind and Rajasthan is in your heart.

boom town shillong

Shilong learns to rock
Shilong
Economic change is literally sweeping through this hill town of the Khasi’s. The humble broom we use in our everyday life contributes Rs. 300 crore to the economy of Shillong every year. The brooms made here are used across India and have seen a demand spiral in synch with the real estate upswing. The brooms cost Rs. 12 a kilo two years ago and now cost upward of 30 ruppes per kilo. Says Anand Aggrawala, who trades in this commodity at the up market police bazaar in downtown Shilong“ The broom is our best-kept secret. This is only the beginning - as rural India modernize hygiene consciousness come about this business grow manifold” It’s classic bottom of the pyramid.

From brooms to tourism and hydel power to software the city is witnessing growth. The city derives its name from the legend of a deity called shy long – one that grows naturally - and is at last living up to its name.

The free market works in fascinating ways here. The helicopter ride from Guahati costs 900 ruppes - take a taxi and the tab is 1100. With air connectivity has come the higher end tourist. Says Mrs. J R Phambo, who is developing a mountaineering and wellness resort in picturesque cherapunji,“ For years Shilong sounded exotic but out of reach now it is a two hour flight and a half hour chopper hop from Delhi. This has translated into a mini tourism boom. Suddenly we are accessible!” And it is likely to get closer. Plans are afoot to lengthen the runway at Shilong to land jet and turboprop aircraft. The first landings may happen this January. The result is a hotels boom - companies including the Taj group and DLF are reportedly exploring possibilities for opening new hotels.

The real growth though may come from unlocking the hydel power potential of the state. The state has seen interest from 40 power firms so far and at least six new hydel power projects are already in various stages of commission. Says Manas Chaudhery, editor of the Shilong times and an MLA “ If execution meets intention Hydel power could a be really serious money spinner for us.“

With an English speaking work force and property prices 40 per cent less than metros it is only a matter of time before information technology arbitrages the Shilong advantage. M Larsing, the NIIT franchise and hotelier says, “Info tech firms are looking to save cost and yet need a diligent workforce that is fluent in English. We have experienced that Shilong youth - once given the technical skills love to work within their homes even if wages are less. I believe that as far as cost arbitrage goes Shilong is the future IT hotspot.”

Yet another trigger for growth is from timber and non-timber forest products. Says Sahihun lang a young women entrepreneur “ Forest products are a strength of Shillong and with the well ness business and the retail revolution unfolding we see great opportunities in supplying top grade honey, turmeric and many other items.” To this end the government has set up an e commerce portal called the Meghalaya agricultural marketing portal and he bigger retails chains have already started procurement.
Finally there is the mineral wealth such as coal and limestone on offer. However the lack of clarity in policy and the difficulty of obtaining land ownership has deterred investors in this sector and much of the mining is illegal. There is also a disputer on mining uranium fro shilong give environment concerns.

One intangible reason for Shilong’s growth is its young population. It’s late in the nigh and the trendy disco Tango is full up trouble has broken out and fists exchanged. The waiter at the Disco informs that they need more bouncers - and from out of town since tribal and clan affiliation ensure that the local ones don’t do a good job of restraining fellow tribals. So economic growth and social change with it, in the city that annually celebrated Bob Dylan birthday, is blowing in the wind.
Growth triggers
Agro and forest products feeding retail chain
Forty proposals for power plants
Airport modernization likely to lead to tourism boom
English speaking workforce and low property and wage cost could prove a cost arbitrage for the information technology industry
Bottlenecks
Tribal society means a few powerful satraps garner most of the gains
The north east periphery yet to gain critical economic mass
Insurgency remains a issue especially in nearby agro hills

river rafting hampred by dams in india

Rafting may fall overboard in rapids of dam projects
Business worth Rs 60 crore, at least 4,000 jobs and the priceless thrill of white-water rafting are at stake with the on-going construction of two dams on the river Alakananda and Ganga. Damming the Ganga upstream from Shivpuri, as well as diversions resulting from the massive dam at Tehri, has impacted the flow of water to the 24-km stretch. If the construction work continues and further tunnels and barrages are opened, some of the country's most popular rapids will be transformed into little more than tepid pools.
The first to fall overboard will be the 40-odd adventure firms that organise rafting expeditions. Says Ajeet Bajaj, president of the Adventure Sports Association of India: "The professional stretch on the Alakananda river has reduced considerably making rafting difficult. There is also a clear danger that the Shivpuri area could become unviable with two new dams coming up upstream and on tributaries. This is a pity because the Ganga is the best rafting river in India and now firmly on the world rafting map."
Explaining their predicament, one operator with two of the several camps that dot the Shivpuri shoreline says, "What dams do is reduce the flow of the river at times when reservoirs are filled and make it too deep at other points when water is released. In both cases, the two dams could make the stretch unviable and shorten-or even curtail-the rafting season."
However, the government does not seem to share the anxiety of the tourism industry. Says Indu Pandey, additional chief secretary, Uttarakhand, who also heads the state's tourism department: "Yes, dams are coming up on the rivers. These are run-of-the-river dams and are not going to affect the flow significantly. I think the industry can live with these dams and should not panic."