Sunday, March 17, 2019

Bangalore Diary





Swallow us alive
I go to Bangalore like u know maybe thrice a year.  It Seems to grow franticlly bigger every time I visit.
It’s odd to see lakes nearby on the Uber map but none visible when travelling - or from the hotel roof tops.
Urbanization has cast a cement spell on Bangalore that’s impossible to break. 




This time, since I was covering the air show, I traveled all over the city for the first three days I was lodging in a place called Manyata tech park about thirty kilometers from the IAF airbase at Yahlankha and next few days next to IIM Bangalore in the middle sorties were made to pubs at Whitefield and church road. So, I traversed the town pretty much. I saw the exasperation and despair of every one - the foreign investor, the “techie” from rohtak, the cab driver - all of them. Everyone looked at the traffic situation like we in Delhi look at pollution with anger giving way to hopelessness.  In many ways it is the reverse of China where infrastructure was build big upfront on a debt mountain for business to follow – here infrastructure has simply not kept pace with the growth and now Bangalore has to mind the gap.
Techie talk 

If I owned an IPL team in Bangalore I would call it Bangalore arbitragers – for this is a city that truly plays on the arbitrage.  It as we all know, crawls with coders. The main advantage is not that India has a smart IT population that will change the world. It’s simply a matter of price arbitrage. An Indian computer engineer with five years experience costs $20,000 a year - while his EXACT equivalent in the US of A costs $100,000. Foreign IT companies have tried several destinations to crack this cost arbitrage they have set up store from Costa Rica to Thailand but the quality and the ability to work that little bit extra without whining , is only found in India - and especially in Bangalore. 



I walked around Manyata Tech Park a newish development that has 9 million square feet of offices of IBM, alcatel, Nvidia; cognizant … you get the drift. The hottest jobs in the next five years are going to be in Data science, in full stack development and Machine learning.  The cost arbitrage is so huge a top US CEO told me – they do not mind spending a whole quarter of wages for retraining fresh Indian grads in computer application skills given our degree factories lack real world training. I also learned from another CEO a trade secret - that H1B will have only marginal impact as a full 40 % of visits by Indian tech firms are to inflate bills!! We can do a lot of the same job sitting right here in Bangalore through conferencing and remote enabling software- the H1B adds client confidence - after all nothing beats a face to face.  It’s kinda you know, reassuring!  BTW the rupee is expected to slide this year – dalal street could yet give 25% rupee returns on some of IT stocks in 2019.

Polite city
For someone from Delhi frankly Bangalore is a shockingly polite city. Even with all that traffic there is rarely an argument. The shopkeepers are amazingly friendly a go out of their way to make you feel happy. I always go to a tiny shop as you turn into Church street that has the best superhero t-shirts from Lokie to Hulkbuster they have it all. Try ordering even at tiny roadside food joints there is a certain politeness which is amazingly for a city of this huge size .

Of food and watering holes


So I went, as I always do over the years, to Peco’s everyone old favorite that has pioneered the pub culture of Bangalore – legend has it that at least two unicorn ideas came out of long drunken evenings here.  I discovered that time takes its toll, but not on the vibes, friendly crowd and excellent coorgi pork stir fry was had and beer was enjoyed over some music. Now Peco’s may not be the in thing anymore for the young crowd but for old timers it’s still the place to be. It is cozy, lived in.



The next day I reached a brewery which I think is doing a lot of good to the drinking scene of Bangalore as it keeps experimenting Windmills in Whitefield, they have to work on their stouts but I think on pale ales they are hitting the right notes. A Dry hopped amber beauty which has a bit more character then typical English ale, I recommend it and @ 300 a pint this is a steal.  The Kali Mirch chicken is a revelation the wood paneled library setting with a very impressive variety of books makes this an excellent choice for a fun evening with some quality beers.

For ales, I think the Arbour brewery on MG road is a must they had a special ale brewed just for the air show – I must confess I relished its smoothness as I said cheers and promised myself to revisit this fast changing metropolis.